Monday, September 18, 2017

George: Monday, 18SEP’17 – Clint, TX to Sierra Blanca, TX

It was a great day to be on the bicycle. The three of us met in the hotel hospitality room for a good breakfast before Sara and I headed outside. The air was a cool 64 and remained that way for several hours. We entered rush hour traffic right out of the driveway as we headed from the freeway entrance back toward Clint. For a mile it was hectic until we reached N. Loop Rd. heading south. At that point we benefited from the traffic traveling in the other direction. 

The bounty of green fields continued for 35 miles as we paralleled the Rio Grande and, of course, the USA-Mexico border. At one point we were within 300 yards of the fence that separates us from our southern neighbor. At 37 miles we made our first Black Oasis stop to refuel. It was time to head due east and away from this bountiful water source. We will be returning to her in 7 days when we arrive in Del Rio. Mike Yelin will be joining us about that time.

The ride on the Interstate was the worst leg of today’s route and we managed to get to the frontage road in good time with the help of a nice tailwind. The road was a welcome change, adequate and quiet. The din of the highway was nearby but the decibel rating was reduced by magnitudes. It might be that there is a correlation between the noise level and the fear level. We met Susan again 20 miles further on at a very pleasant rest area located on the frontage road. I can’t explain the presence of a rest area on a road with no traffic. In the 40 miles of such road we traveled today, three cars passed us including twice by Susan! The stop was very restful. We needed that because we had 30 more miles to go. With a strong tailwind behind us, we ate up that distance in a little under two hours.  It was our longest ride to date at 88 miles. We completed that distance in 7:30.

Tonight we are staying in the town of Sierra Blanca. It could be the poster child for cities in decline in the USA. In a stretch of two miles on the main road running east-west through the town, with a collection of forty buildings, there are 38 buildings with dilapidated signs, boarded up windows, leaning rain gutters, and overgrown landscaping. There is a prison here, which reminds me that the citizens of this town are de facto inmates of a sort. I hasten to add to my observation above that the only two people I have met this decaying town are as genuinely American as you can get. The missing components are a pitchfork in Charlie’s hand and the homestead in the background. Leti is the boss? And Charlie is her handyman, when he is not playing the role of spouse. They are a delightful pair. When Charlie gets to talking, the conversation has no bounds and no boundaries. His bio could seed several epic novels. It will be sad to leave this place tomorrow. However, I asked Charlie about winters in Sierra Blanca. His description was very … warming. Susan and I may be back.

Tomorrow’s ride into Marfa, TX will be 80+ miles, putting us back on schedule to finish in 40 days. Stay tuned. 

Shot of the distant border wall from SR 20

Sierra Blanca main drag - per Susan, "I'm sorry, but
this picture makes it look so much better than it is"

Sierra Blanca

Sierra Blanca

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