Sara: Day 26

What a lovely ride! Today’s 78 miles from Navasota to Livingston took us over gently rolling hills on roads as smooth as butter, through the Sam Houston National Forest and a string of quaint little towns, and passed idyllic farms punctuated by white picket fences. Aside from a few stretches of heavy traffic and missing shoulder, it was perfect and picturesque. I’m afraid I’m starting to like Texas. And cycling.

George: Friday, 29SEP’17 – Navasota, TX to Livingston, TX

It was a great day to ride a bicycle. We left artsy Navasota after a good breakfast compliments of the Best Western. Naturally, the dawn has been arriving early as we move east. At 7:15, we moved northeast for ten miles to the town of Anderson where we picked up Farm Road 149. 

Sara: Day 25

Our plan to avoid the rain worked! Well, sort of. It did rain on us just a bit in the last 10 miles of our 77 mile ride from Bastrop to Navasota, but the vast majority of the ride was dry, so we were happy and productive riders.

George: Thursday, 28SEP’17 – Bastrop, TX to Navasota, TX

It was a great day to ride a bicycle. Sara and I were firing on all cylinders. Each of us was well rested. In particular, I had two rest days and two 40-mile days to show for the last few days. Let me share the details with you.

Sara: Day 24

Today was a fun day despite another rocky start. We woke up at 6 to heavy rain and spent the first hour of the morning having an animated discussion regarding our plans for the next several days. A couple members of the party wanted to drive beyond the rain to Bastrop, two scheduled stops away, and write off the two days of riding. The other wants to ride her damn bike across the whole country.

George: Wednesday, 27SEP’17 – Kerrville, TX to Bastrop, TX (no riding)

Don’t give up on us. We are still on a bike ride across America. However, the rains are not letting up in West Texas until the weekend. At breakfast, with a downpour forecast to last all day, we decided that riding today was not in the cards. Yesterday I had my rest day and Sara was not fighting the thought of a day off the bike.

Sara: Day 23

This morning handed us all of the ingredients for a crap day. Thunderstorms were in the forecast all day along the 77 hilly miles from Camp Wood to Kerrville, my dad wasn’t feeling well and had decided not to ride so I’d be going solo*, and the restaurant we were counting on for breakfast wasn’t open at 6:30 as expected so it was going to be a late start. But the route, the scenery, and the events of the day ended up being one of my favorites yet; although, oh my god, was it hard.

George: Tuesday, 26SEP’17 – Camp Wood, TX to Kerrville, TX

Today’s route was as pretty as you can make one. It reminded me of riding in Richland County, OH (Mansfield/Ashland). The rain, the rolling hills and the Guadalupe River were Sara’s companions today. I took the day off riding in the sag wagon. I needed a day off the bike. The prudent thing for me to do at this time was to take the day off considering we are just over half way to the Atlantic Ocean.

Sara: Day 22

We woke up to a legitimate rain this morning but, after 3 days of riding in the area, we were finally leaving Del Rio in the dust (or, as it turns out, mud), so we were ready to get on the road. We slept in (hallelujah), ate a big breakfast, said goodbye to Mike (tear), and got dropped off at Johnson Ranch, our stopping point from yesterday, with 40 miles to ride into Camp Wood.

George: Monday, 25SEP’17 – Johnson Ranch, TX to Camp Wood, TX

It was a good day to ride a bicycle. It all began with breakfast for me at 8:00am having my biggest one to date. I met Sara and Mike and Susan at 9:45 for their breakfast. Mike was packed and ready to drive to San Antonio for a plane ride to Chicago and a day of work. All this while a steady rain dampened the driveway but not our spirits.

Sara: Day 21

During dinner last night at Pho Rio, which was shockingly delightful, there was a lot of discussion about taking a rest day today. It’s amazing how much fighting the wind the last two days has zapped us (Mike has taken to calling me “Jeb” as a reflection of my low energy level) and the forecast was for another 13mph headwind out of town today.

George: Sunday, 24SEP’17 – Del Rio, TX to Johnson Ranch, TX

It was mutually agreed that we observe to the proverbial day of rest by taking the day off.  The off day was the result of two brutal 60-mile days on the road riding against that invisible bandit that stealthily steals your energy.  In fact, we did ride 40 miles today, half the distance to Camp Wood, our next stop. 

Sara: Day 20

Refer to “Sara: Day 19”. The 60 mile ride from Langtry to Del Rio was the same hilly terrain, same cloud cover, and, most importantly, same WIND as yesterday’s ride, just with worse roads, more roadkill, and a few bouts of spitting rain. Coupled with the fact that we were still tired from yesterday at our 5:30am wake-up, it was another long day. 

George: Saturday, 23SEP’17 – Langtry, TX to Del Rio, TX

Today, I used all my wits to move the Mighty Basso from Langtry to Del Rio. To wit, the bicycle is much like a musical instrument. The player (rider) sizes up several factors and then plucks the bike. Factors to finesse include, but are not limited to, road surface and incline, weather, wind direction, rider fatigue, etc. It was as grueling as the day before, but worse because of the weariness in my legs from yesterday.

Sara: Day 19

Today’s 60 mile ride from Sanderson to Langtry was maybe our toughest yet as a result of the 20+mph headwind. But, we muddled through and are hoping to have retained some energy for what will be essentially the same ride tomorrow.

George: Friday, 22SEP’17 – Sanderson, TX to Langtry, TX

We ate dinner last evening in the hotel room. The fold down table stationed against the front window worked perfectly with the three room chairs. Dinner consisted of a sundry collection of purchases from the stop-n-go across the street. It was actually quite convenient if you were not interested in real food. It was our best option in Sanderson.

Sara: Day 18

Today was another “rest day” at 54 miles from Marathon to Sanderson, so, for the second day in a row, we had a leisurely morning and a late start to the ride. For those unfamiliar, Sanderson is the location of the trailer park where Llewellyn Moss lives in No Country for Old Men, a real gem of place.

George: Thursday, 21SEP’17 – Marathon, TX to Sanderson, TX

Dinner in Marathon consisted of visiting the Big Bend Pizza shop. Big Bend Pizza is a rather lame excuse for a restaurant. Several ancient non-functioning automobiles adorn the parking lot. The entrance is a labyrinth of doors and hallways leading a customer to a single non-descript room with four tables and a few mismatched chairs. We were the only eat-in customers, a bad omen. And the cook/server, a woman in her mid 50s, was one of the rudest folks I have ever met. 

Sara: Day 17

Today we rode 60 miles from Marfa to Marathon. It’s shocking to me that we’ve reached a point where riding 50-60 miles is considered a “rest day”, but it is – and it was.

George: Wednesday, 20SEP’17 – Marfa,TX to Marathon, TX

Last evening we ate at Stelina’s on the main drag in Marfa. It was just half block from the Paisano Hotel. Dirk was a gray-bearded stout fellow, casually dressed and vintage 1960. His server mannerisms were well honed from introduction to final cleanup and his query about our dessert choice. During our dinner and on one of his obligatory stops to our table I asked him if he knew a local, Anthony D. We had a nice conversation, Dirk smiling all the while. I texted Anthony about our dinner restaurant choice and that Dirk was our server. His response was “Wild Dirk!” Maybe there was something I should have asked Dirk.

Sara: Day 16

Today was a great day, in spite of the biking. The 82 mile ride from (22 miles east of) Sierra Blanca to Marfa, TX was tough – long ride, wind in our faces for most of the day, road surfaces that left a lot to be desired, and unchanging, painfully boring terrain – but it was still a pretty entertaining day.

George: Tuesday, 19Sep’17 – Sierra Blanca, TX to Marfa, TX

It was a great day to ride a bicycle. What a difference a day makes. We came from the dusty town of Sierra Blanca 80+ miles to the sparkling town of Marfa. The dichotomy is palpable. But first let me tell you about the ride.

Sara: Day 15

Whew, today’s ride from Clint to Sierra Blanca – not my best.

George: Monday, 18SEP’17 – Clint, TX to Sierra Blanca, TX

It was a great day to be on the bicycle. The three of us met in the hotel hospitality room for a good breakfast before Sara and I headed outside. The air was a cool 64 and remained that way for several hours. We entered rush hour traffic right out of the driveway as we headed from the freeway entrance back toward Clint. For a mile it was hectic until we reached N. Loop Rd. heading south. At that point we benefited from the traffic traveling in the other direction. 

Sara: Day 14

Today’s 65 mile ride from Las Cruces to Clint welcomed us to Texas. SR 28 out of Las Cruces this morning was as lovely a road as any – lush green vegetation, pecan groves shading the road, a scenic mountain backdrop whenever we caught a break in the trees, and two more crossings of the Rio Grande, all with wide, clean shoulders and light traffic. As if to validate our infatuation with the route, we passed probably 50 cyclists in our 2 hours on that road (well, I saw 50 but my dad saw 100 and my mom saw 70). It’s amazing how comforting a little foliage and other humans on the road can feel after days of little but sun, dust, and arid landscape. It was a great ride.

George: Sunday, 17SEP’17 – Las Cruces, NM to Clint, TX

It was a great day to ride a bicycle. A confluence of events made it so. We had fresh legs from our day’s rest. The thermometer cooperated providing us with a balmy high of 91. Funny how that sounds so, ever since I experienced the heat tourniquet known by the epithet Arizona. We had good roads and wide berms. The drivers were uniformly courteous. And Sara was at my elbow as we lopped off the miles. Did I tell you that it was a great day to ride a bicycle?

Sara: Day 13

Turns out we got another day in New Mexico and more opportunities to eat hatch chilies, this time in hummus and tamales. My dad has been sick for several days now and felt particularly crummy last night. Considering this is our last big town for a while, we decided to take the day off, visit a clinic, load up on meds, and get some rest.

George: Saturday, 16SEP’17 – Rest day in Las Cruces, NM

The original plan was to conduct a tour of 40 days, and 40 nights. No rest days were planned because Sara is on a schedule. She wanted a few days to recoup when she finished the ride before she went back to work.

Sara: Day 12

Today’s ride from Deming to Las Cruces was a 63 mile ride, very similar to yesterday. It was pretty uneventful, so only a few things to report from the road.

George: Friday, 15SEP’17 – Deming, NM to Las Cruces, NM

We left Deming with some sadness. The browns of Arizona and western parts of New Mexico gave way to verdant surroundings of this charming place. As we approached town, irrigated fields and fruit orchards greeted us. We ate at a wonderful Italian restaurant last evening for a meal that competes for the best of tour. The hotel was very nice, and the drivers continued their non-aggressive driving.

Sara: Day 11

Today was a lot of fun! We saw all sorts of entertaining things on the 61 mile ride from Lordsburg to Deming and I can honestly say I loved every minute of it. It certainly didn’t hurt that we finished in under 5 hours.

George: Thursday, 14SEP’17 – Lordsburg, NM to Deming, NM

The ride today joined two others as best of the tour. Here’s why.

Sara: Day 10

I cannot believe we’ve been at this for 10 consecutive days! Aside from two numb fingers on my left hand and sun poisoning covering both legs (seriously, you should see this rash…), I feel pretty good! Exhausted, but good.

George: Wednesday, 13SEP’17 – Thatcher, AZ to Lordsburg, NM

It was a great day to ride a bicycle. Day-wise we are ¼ of the way across America. Of the ten days we have been on the bikes, there are two standout days, the Salome-Buckeye run and today’s run. On both of those days, the traffic was light, the road was smooth, and Sara and I chatted as we rode. For me it was paradise.

Sara: Day 9

Today’s ride from Globe to Thatcher was my least favorite of the trip.

George: Tuesday, 12SEP’17 – Globe, AZ to Thatcher, AZ

This was a hard day to ride a bicycle, but we were unaware of it at the start. We left the parking lot at our usual 6:00am.  It was the coolest of all the mornings since San Diego. Although it was not Ohio fall weather, it made for very comfortable riding.

Sara: Day 8

Today’s ride from Apache Junction to Globe was shorter than the last few days, which was a welcome change. It was a tough ride, though, with the traffic, wind, and hills, so we moved a little slower than we’ve become accustomed. The scenery was pretty terrific when I had the energy to look around, rivaling those first 17 miles out of Jacumba as the best yet.

George: Monday, 11SEP’17 – Apache Junction, AZ to Globe, AZ

All day I face the barren waste without the taste of water,

Cool water.

Sara and I with throats burned dry, and so’s that taste for water,

Cool, clear water.  … Paraphrased

Sara: Day 7

ONE WEEK DOWN! And only 5 to go!

George: Sunday, 10SEP’17 – Buckeye, AZ to Apache Junction, AZ

The synopsis of the day: We got on the bike at 6:00am; we rode 75 miles; we got off the bike at 1:30. I think the extended version is somewhere below.

Sara: Day 6

I slept on a couch last night. In retrospect, I may have overestimated the amount of youth left in this 32-year old body. For the first time on this trip, I woke up feeling worse than when I went to bed. I’m not sure if it was the couch itself or the full night of restlessness, worrying that any part of my body, hair, or clothing was touching hotel furniture. Either way, I was worried this AM because today’s ride from Salome to Buckeye was the longest yet at ~75 miles.

George: Saturday, 9SEP’17 – Salome, AZ to Buckeye, AZ

Last evening we stayed in a quaint, quiet, quirky, hotel. There were only four rooms available, and we were the only customers, so we had the place to ourselves. The covered courtyard was very pleasant in spite of the mid nineties readings. The beers that Susan offered us upon arrival didn’t hurt. The Westward Motel offers its clients a common kitchen and eating area as well. After having dinner across the street we bought fixin’s for breakfast. It was as though we had our own place. After Sara and I started off, Susan loaded the van and came following.   

Sara: Day 5

Today’s ride from Blythe to Salome was a tough one for me – for no particular reason. The 2500ft ascent was gradual, the route was only 60 miles, and the weather cooperated, but I was fried by the last 10 miles (too fried to take a picture of the “YOU ARE NOW BEYOND HOPE” sign when we passed through Hope, AZ – because I was!) Chips, salsa, and Coronas waited for us on the porch when we rolled into the motel. How does my mom always know exactly what I need?

George: Friday, 8SEP’17 – Blythe, CA to Salome, AZ

The early morning oven just outside our hotel room greeted us with open arms. We intended to get an early start, but getting ready took longer than we expected. We left Blythe just before 6:00am. I had my handmade copy of the daily map, as usual, but I did not refer to it once. The route was easy: I-10 west for 31 miles, exit onto US60 East, continue for 25 miles.  In case anyone is adding up the miles today, include the 5 miles we rode from the hotel traveling east down Business I-10 until we reached the Colorado River.

Sara: Day 4

Today’s ride from El Centro to Blythe was another flat one – yay! At one point in the middle of nowhere, I noticed a burly man with a hay hook limping down the road (Google “hay hook”; it looks more intimidating than it sounds). He looked like Edgar from ‘Men in Black’.

George: Thursday, 7SEP’17 – El Centro, CA to Blythe, CA

Today it felt as though we were on a bike tour. I can’t tell you why, but we finally got into a groove. We have established a routine that will likely continue for the duration. I also told Sara, as we rolled into Glamis, that I had confidence we will complete the ride.

Sara: Day 3

Today’s ride from Jacumba to El Centro was a good one. While the 17-mile descent on the way out of Jacumba was a welcome change from yesterday’s climbing, believe me, riding your brakes for an hour on a 6% grade is no walk in the park. I’m assuming the feeling in my hands will return in a few days.

George: Wednesday, 6SEP'17 – Jucumba, CA to El Centro, CA

This morning we met in the Resort dining room for a wonderful breakfast. All in all, the stay here was outstanding in spite of the well-worn room. We pulled out of the parking lot at 8:00am with the assurance that the road to El Centro was “all down hill.”

Sara: Day 2

Neck, hands, ass, hills, hills, hills, sun. This was really the only thing going through my head today on the ride from Alpine to Jacumba Hot Springs. We did have some amazing views though.

George: Tuesday, 5SEP’17 – Alpine, CA to Jucumba Hot Springs, CA

It was a great morning to ride a bike. We ate a complimentary breakfast at the Ayres Lodge. While chowing down and discussing the events of the day, the server indicated that he was from Canton, OH. In fact, his entire family lives there. He is the only one who escaped! We conversed for quite a while. Finally we reminded him that we had 45 miles to go and we should get started.

Sara: Day 1

I haven’t been on a bike since November 5, 2011. Sorry, Mike would call me out for exaggerating – in late May I rode up and down the street a couple of times so my dad could fit me to the bike and in June I spent 20 minutes on a stationary bike while finishing an episode of The Americans in preparation for this trip.

George: Monday, 4SEP’17 – San Diego, CA to Alpine, CA

All of us were up at 4:00am in spite of the exceptional sleeping quarters. It was the internal reveille that made it seem like 7:00am. A little quiet chat made the clock roll around to 5:30. We were up and active as ants in a sugar bowl managing to fit in a 6:30 breakfast amidst all the turmoil. At 8:00am we were at Hospitality Point, the start of the ride.

George: Sunday, 3SEP’17 – El Centro, CA to San Diego, CA

We were in no particular hurry to leave El Centro. It had nothing to do with last evening’s dust storm, or the intense heat still lingering well into the evening. Our objective for the day was to pick up Sara from the airport at 4:00pm, and it was a 3 hour drive between El Centro and San Diego.

George: Saturday, 2SEP’17 – Globe, AZ to El Centro, CA

Our day started with a complimentary breakfast at Holiday Inn Express Globe AZ. There were more patrons than there was space to accommodate us, but we made do.

George: Friday, 1SEP’17 – Rolla, MO to Globe, AZ

Just before 8:00am, we watched Amarillo and its cool morning air converge to nothing from our rear view mirror. The road was good and the fields to either side of us were as flat as anywhere. After an hour the sun began following us as it rose above the horizon.  

George: Thursday, 31AUG’17 – Columbus, OH to Rolla, MO

With these words I am beginning a journal to record my experiences as Sara and I ride across America in Adventure Cycling’s Southern Route. Susan will be driving the route, helping where we need it and hauling our bags from town to town. She will be our “sag wagon.”